32 codes · 12 appliances
One page per code per appliance, because the same characters on a washer and on a range are two different repairs. The maker's own wording is quoted and attributed; the reading and the steps are ours.
All of them
Filter by appliance before you type. The same letter and number are not the same condition on a washer and on a dryer, and choosing the machine first turns a list of near-misses into one page.
No code here matches that. Codes differ between series, and some are only shown on the service display — call (305) 912-9018 with the model number and what the display is doing.
Everything here was read from this maker's own owner support library and every entry links back to the article it came from. What is the maker's is quoted as the maker's and marked: the code, which appliance shows it, and the sentence published about it. The reading and the steps are ours, written per code. Where the maker publishes only a name and a power cycle, that is what the page says.
Read this before you reset
Photograph the display before you cut power, including the spacing — on this make the spacing is part of the code, and SU dS and SB SB are not typing errors. The high-temperature alert on a refrigerator shows the peak temperature it reached exactly once.
Most of the range codes are published by the maker as a name and thirty seconds at the breaker, so the reset is usually right. Doing it in the wrong order is what costs you the diagnosis.
Several are not problems
A dash is the cooktop lock. LOC is the washer control lock. A number between one and twenty-four on a dishwasher is the delay start. Hd is the heat delay. AD is an automatic dryer cycle. SB SB is Sabbath mode, and DEMO is a showroom setting.
Each has a page here saying so plainly, because from across a room every one of them looks exactly like a dead appliance.
Before you book
Or start from what it is doing
If there is no code, or the code does not match what you are seeing.
Something is clearly happening inside and the cabinet is still not cold. Two pieces of evidence settle most of what follows, and neither requires tools. The first is yours: a thermometer in each compartment, read twice sixty minutes apart. The second belongs to the appliance — the peak temperature it recorded behind its high-temperature alert, which appears once and is destroyed by a second press of clear. Together they separate an airflow problem from a defrost problem from the sealed system itself. Three unrelated appointments.
The most diagnostic complaint in refrigeration, and good news more often than not. One sealed system serves both compartments here and air is moved between them, so when only one side is wrong the refrigerant circuit is almost certainly fine and the problem is on the air path. That is the inexpensive half of everything that can go wrong with a refrigerator, and it is worth saying plainly before anybody starts worrying about compressors.
This maker's cabinets announce a warm cabinet rather than leaving you to discover it, and they sound once a minute until acknowledged. The detail almost nobody knows is the useful one: when you clear the alert, the display shows the highest temperature the cabinet actually reached. That single number answers the only question that matters after a power cut — whether the food is safe — and it is gone the second time you press clear.
Three ordinary sources, and where the water shows tells you which. Under the crisper drawers is the defrost drain. Behind or beneath the cabinet is the supply line to the dispenser and ice maker. Down the front of a door is condensation from a seal. In a fitted kitchen the order of urgency is different from a rental, because the water reaches joinery and flooring long before anybody sees a puddle on tile.
A no-frost cabinet that is building frost is telling you one of two things: moist air is getting in, or the defrost cycle is not completing. On a 33-inch column the geometry makes this worse than on a small box — the evaporator is tall, ice builds from the bottom upward, and by the time anything is visible on the top shelf there is a great deal of it out of sight behind the rear panel.
Most refrigerator noises are normal and a few are not, and the difference is usually when they happen rather than how loud they are. A counter-depth cabinet in a run of joinery also amplifies what it makes — the cabinetry acts as a sounding board — so a noise that would be unremarkable in a freestanding unit becomes the reason somebody calls. Telling us when the noise occurs narrows this faster than any description of the sound.
The drawer this maker calls TempAdapt runs from −6 °F to 45 °F, which is a wider span than any other compartment in the cabinet attempts, and it manages it with its own air path, its own damper and its own sensor. That independence is the whole diagnosis: this drawer can fail completely while the rest of the refrigerator is perfect, and that is an ordinary outcome rather than a contradiction somebody needs explaining away.
The only freezer this badge builds is a 19 cubic foot, 33-inch column designed to stand beside its refrigerator twin behind matching trim. That matters here because everything written about freezer repair online is about a chest in a garage, and none of it applies. The failures are a tall evaporator icing from the bottom, a heavy trim-paneled door losing its seal, and an air path through the joinery that silted up years ago.
Worth saying
Most of the F-codes on the electric range are published as a title and a power cycle and nothing else. Those pages say exactly that and mark the record as such, rather than inventing a checklist behind a name. Where the maker does publish a procedure — the washer’s E-codes, the dryer guide, the dishwasher’s i40 — the procedure is quoted and our own reading is written around it.
Before you book
The one for your appliance. E42 on a washer is a door lock that will not confirm; E42 on a dryer of the same make is a plain open door. Read the code with the machine, never on its own.
This maker publishes no freezer codes at all, so what you are seeing is likely a high-temperature alert, which does have a page, or a mode. Send a photograph and we will tell you which.
Once is a test. Three times is a habit that hides how often it is happening. Note the date each time instead — a code that appears weekly and one that appears twice a year need different conversations.
In more detail
These come out of 272 articles of this maker’s own Owner Center library. A code with no article behind it does not go on this site, which is why the list is 32 long rather than a hundred. A sibling fleet once shipped about thirty-eight “codes” that were symptoms somebody invented.
The commercial line, Freezer, Ice maker, Microwave, Wine cooler. No article, no table, no list. Those appliances have symptom pages on this site and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door.
This maker publishes a seven-row dryer code guide. The volume badge in the same corporate group publishes no dryer code whatsoever. Three of those seven rows are installation problems the manufacturer sends back to the installer rather than to a repair company.
Then this maker does not publish it, or the appliance is not one this site covers. Tell us what the panel shows and which machine it is, and we will say which of the two it is.
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