---
title: "Dryer not heating"
description: "Electrolux dryer not heating: on an electric dryer this pattern says something specific before anybody opens the machine."
url: "https://electroluxmiami.support/symptoms/dryer-not-heating/"
date_modified: "2026-09-11"
Appliance type: "Dryers"
---


# Electrolux dryer not heating

### What to do in the next ten minutes

Check whether anything else on 240 volts has misbehaved at the same time — the range, the water heater, the air handler. Reset the dryer breaker once, fully off and back on, and no more than once. Clean the lint filter and look through it against a light.

### Why the supply comes first

It is counter-intuitive: the appliance is the thing that stopped working, so the appliance must be broken. But the specific pattern of a dryer that tumbles and does not heat maps precisely onto losing one leg of a 240-volt supply, and that fails outside the machine — at the breaker, at the outlet, at the cord, or at the utility. This maker publishes two codes pointing there. If that is what we find, we will tell you rather than fitting an element.

A leg of the supply is missing

A lost 240-volt leg leaves the motor running on 120 and the element dead. It usually takes another appliance with it, and that coincidence is the diagnosis.

The thermal fuse has opened

It opens because the air was restricted. Replacing it without clearing the duct blows the next one.

The element or a thermostat has failed

The straightforward repair at the end of the list, and it is worth doing the wear parts around it at the same time.

Look for other 240-volt oddities

The single most useful thing you can tell us on the phone about this symptom.

Reset the breaker once

Once. Repeatedly resetting a breaker that is doing its job is not diagnosis.

Hold the lint filter up to a light

Softener residue passes lint and blocks air while looking perfectly clean.

It tumbles, the cycle runs, nothing dries

What it usually means

Tumbling without heat points at the supply as often as at the element

H2/B2 and H4/B4 both point outside the machine

Check whether the range went strange at the same time

What to do in the next ten minutes

Check whether anything else on 240 volts has misbehaved at the same time — the range, the water heater, the air handler. Reset the dryer breaker once, fully off and back on, and no more than once. Clean the lint filter and look through it against a light.

Why the supply comes first

It is counter-intuitive: the appliance is the thing that stopped working, so the appliance must be broken. But the specific pattern of a dryer that tumbles and does not heat maps precisely onto losing one leg of a 240-volt supply, and that fails outside the machine — at the breaker, at the outlet, at the cord, or at the utility. This maker publishes two codes pointing there. If that is what we find, we will tell you rather than fitting an element.

### It heats a little but not much.

That is more likely the appliance — a partially failed element or a thermostat cycling early — because a missing leg gives no heat at all rather than weak heat.

### Is it worth checking the vent first?

Always, and it costs nothing. A restricted vent is what opens thermal fuses, so it is the cause behind a good share of no-heat calls even when the fuse is the part replaced.

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